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Gwendoline Johnston & Tamara Sachs talk about SMP techniques

In this article we asked Gwendoline Johnston Tamara Sachs to tell us about

Scalp Micropigmentaion procedures.

Interview and article by Sharon Vann.

The scalp subject is covered by thick shadows of mysteries and questions.

Not all of us, professional permanent makeup artists are mentally ready to work in this field.

Let’s try together to shed some light on it, shall we?

Tamara Sachs, an international trainer of NPM says:

“There are many reasons as to WHY people are getting bald. It occurs due to problems with mental health, stress, genetics, hormones, diseases etc. It is important to distinguish why your client have hair growth problems. If it is due to poor immune system, it might also affect the result of the treatment. Poor immune system means that the client’s capability to hold the pigment you injecting is lowered. Some might have a temporary condition such as clients who are going through radiation. It is best to postpone the procedure after they are done with radiation. If the client persists, you can always ask for physician approval. Alopecia on the other hand is an ongoing condition. A typical characteristic for diagnosing Alopecia is total absence of hair on client’s body.

Alopecia areata: is an autoimmune disease. It is highly advised not to treat clients with such alopecia in your early stage of experience gaining. Clients with this condition require multiple sessions and special approval by their physician”.

Let’s have a look at the process of work.

According to NPM technique, first we need to draw the borders with a white pencil after completing the design, then we let our client approve the design, and, once they approve the design, we repeat the line using surgical marker.

Now we numb the place for 60 minutes with a 5% lidocaine cream. Tamara recommends Dr. Numb, but I can tell that Emla 5% has same effect as well. So… take what’s more easy for you to get in your country. (because every country has different rules/policies of certification)

After taking a break – we start working again.

It doesn’t matter, if you choose to work with the roller or the one point needle… the process will be the same – remove the numbing cream from a small area and work on it, then work on the next area… then move on…

At this point, we leave Tamara and go together to South Africa to meet with Gwendoline Johnston.

Gwendoline Johnston owns studio in Johannesburg as well as in Cape Town

Gwendoline attained her Master Certification with the American Institute of Intradermal Cosmetics in October 2013.  She has kept fully up to date with ongoing study in the latest techniques and trends by obtaining over eighteen certificates and diplomas both locally in South Africa and internationally – attending Advanced Permanent Makeup training seminars, master classes, conferences and workshops.

Gwendoline obtained experience over the past eighteen years, together with a thorough understanding of skin and color, which has places her in the confident position to teach, advise and perform in all areas of advanced permanent makeup, including paramedical applications.  Permanent Makeup by Gwendoline is affiliated with local and international Plastic Surgeons, Dermatologists, Specialists and Medical Spa.

“Throughout my career, I have remained committed to delivering excellence.  I have a deep passion for my craft and genuine care for my clients, which, when teamed with the highest level of professionalism, is aimed to deliver unparalleled performance within the vibrant and ever-evolving world of permanent makeup”.

– Hello, Gwen! Could you start explaining who needs those treatments? Who are your clients?

– Gwendoline: Hair Follicle Simulation (HFS) is fast becoming increasing popular with both men and women as the incidence of balding or thinning hair is becoming more prevalent given the modern-day stress environments. Genetic predisposition also plays a role.  We now have the revolutionary NPM HFS roller which provides a natural-looking and immediate solution to the problem.

Here is an example by Gwendoline.

– There must be a difference between clients who lost all their hair and those who just need to cover some spots. Also, as far as I know, scalp tissue is oilier, so how do you deal with it?

– Gwendoline: Yes, of course… because the scalp naturally has more oil glands (in general), I first wash the scalp over with a solution of (1:10) Bioscrub and water . This serves to both remove any present of oil (which would inhibit the effectiveness of my topical anesthetic) as well as disinfect the area to be treated.

I then use alcohol wipes to remove any residual oil that may remain.

The area is then dried and topical anesthetic is applied.

I choose to use Numb Master which is a highly effective topical numbing cream.

If possible, the area must be occluded – should too much hair present, I loosely wrap a clean towel around to create warmth.

The client rests for a minimum of 20 minutes.

After the prescribed 20 minutes, sections of anesthetic is removed – initially using tissue wipes and then washed with the Bioscrub solution mentioned.

I then work systematically, section by section (either with the HFS roller or single needle – depending on the area expanse and aesthetic result required) until the correct ‘fullness’ has been achieved.  For scalp pigmentation or hair follicle simulation – I use the NMP HFS pigments which are specifically created for this specialized application.

Should any bleeding occur I may use a combination of TAG #45 and Duration drops which contain a small amount of epinephrine which is a vasoconstrictor (stops any bleeding) whilst working.

Once completed, I apply pure grape seed oil.

The client will be instructed to wait between 36 and 48 hours before washing hair using baby shampoo and focusing on the lengths rather than the actual scalp.

6 weeks later, a refinement is performed to ensure that HFS application was even and symmetrical.

Here is an example for a procedure “Second type” – Before:

This is a different client, but it is immediately after the procedure by Gwendoline, done with the roller of NPM:

And this one is 4 days into the healing process:

The HFS (Hair Follicle Simulation) Technology was developed by the inventor, Moshe Alul, it was invented (PCT Patent No. 61-561,949) as an additional part of a permanent makeup system using state-of-the-art technology to perfect a youthful, fresh appearance and provide an impressive solution to balding, thinning hair and hair loss for both men and women.

– Does the roller save your time Gwen?

– Gwendoline: The roller saves the experienced PMU artist a huge amount of time.  My scalp work which previously could take up to 6 hours to complete, is now done within 2 hours – thanks to this unique innovative roller system, yet …the roller takes some time to master.

– How do you finish a procedure?

– Gwendoline: At conclusion of the procedure, the pigment is allowed to remain on the scalp in order to create an environment conducive to maximum retention. A soothing healing balm is applied. After 48 hours the hair may carefully be washed using a gentle (baby) shampoo.

– What will be the recommendation for patient at home?

– Gwendoline: There is no specific home care routine recommended – apart from waiting 5 days before gently washing the hair with a baby shampoo.